This paper describes a research project between a woven textiles designer, researcher and educator, and the company Harris Tweed Hebrides. In the 1960’s over five million metres of Harris Tweed fabric was produced annually, reducing to an all time low of 454,963 metres in 2009. However, since the opening of Harris Tweed Hebrides Shawbost Mill, production of Harris Tweed has more than doubled. Customers include Alexander McQueen, Chanel, YSL, Paul Smith, Margaret Howell, J.Crew and Vivienne Westwood. Harris Tweed is governed by an Act of Parliament; in order for the fabric to receive the trademark ‘Orb’ stamp it must be woven according to a set of regulations covering yarn type, spinning, dying, weaving and geographic location. The definition of Harris Tweed is a fabric “…handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides” (HMSO 1993: 7).

The aim of this research project was to explore the potential for innovation within the range of designs produced by Harris Tweed Hebrides. An empirical investigation was undertaken to uncover existing design practice and processes. The author adopted the position of practitioner-researcher to provide insight beyond the existent situation and extend design innovation. Practical investigations undertaken by the author, explored designs options that would be immediately viable on the current looms utilised by the island weavers. Sampling which was out-with the possibilities of the machinery currently being used, which would require looms to be adapted, was also undertaken. The paper concludes by providing suggestions to enhance design innovation in Harris Tweed and discusses areas for further research regarding the design and production of woven fabrics.