This paper is based on the analysis of the design process in the contemporary childrenswear, combined with the study of the fashion apparel. The observation of an industry, maintained in a model inherited from the period of democratisation of fashion (prior to WW2), serves the understanding of a childrenswear apparel based on the distinction between genders. From this contextual approach, this research will measure the gap between the beliefs on consumers’ expectations, and the constant evolution of children’s education questioning this binary approach of childhood in the Global North. When policy makers and educational institutions are addressing these changes, the fashion industry remains behind. However, from high-end to high-street, from niche labels to mainstream offers, this research analyses a series of brands contributing to an innovative and visionary evolution of childrenswear. Meanwhile, a focus on children, as users, allows the understanding of their appropriation and diversion of a gendered fashion generated by adults as makers as well as co-consumers.