Poem published in George Mackay Brown: Beyond the Swelkie: A Collection of Poems & Writings Celebrating the Centenary of George Mackay Brown (1921-1996). The poem explores the notion of 'qualia' using a walk along the west coast of Orkney Mainland, starting from Stromness and including the Warbeth Cemetery, where GMB is buried. It draws on notions of 'island-ness', female subjectivity and place, taking inspiration from Merleau-Ponty; Derrida's theory of 'hauntology; and the black female gaze (drawing on research from my PhD, as well as from bell hooks's theory).