Timeless Innovation exhibition. Curated by jewellery expert Joanna Hardy, features some of Hardy’s personal highlights from the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths' Collection – ‘timeless’ examples of exacting craftsmanship and innovative design. Alongside these exceptional jewels are a few complementary pieces from masters and accomplished apprentices, each reflecting timeless innovation. One of the first pieces to be acquired by the Collection, an articulated diamond and platinum bracelet by Roger King, is among Hardy’s top choices. Towards the opposite end of the acquisition timeline, a delicate brooch by Andrew Lamb appears to shift and change colour as the eye moves across it. Lamb’s piece was acquired for the Collection only a few years ago.
Whether made using traditional skills or the latest technologies, the Collection’s jewellery not only conveys a range of styles and a true sense of innovation but also shows how work from older craftsmen continues to inspire and influence the newer generations of jewellers. It is interesting to see designs in the Collection that have been echoed in later contemporary works, such as John Donald’s 1960s brooch and a Jo Hayes-Ward bangle from the mid-2000s. Donald used traditional goldsmithing techniques while Hayes-Ward applies CAD and 3D printing to explore similar aesthetics. Building on Donald’s sculptural style, Hayes-Ward’s precision jewellery cannot realistically be made solely through traditional means; she uses innovative digital technology to make the cubic formations fresh and cutting-edge for today.
The showcase also alludes to the idea of training and the nurturing of talent as exemplified by the work of the leading light of modern UK jewellery, designer Andrew Grima, and some skilled craftsmen who have worked with him, including Tom Scott. Examples of both their work feature in the exhibition – Grima’s exquisite gold choker necklace incorporating pearls and diamonds, and Tom Scott’s splendid gold necklace. The Company commissioned Scott to make a gold necklace inspired by Grima’s earlier work to celebrate Grima and the passing on of skills. Additional standout work includes pieces external to the Collection, such as Shaun Leane’s spectacular Beetle Brooch. Exhibited for the first time ever, the piece is made of aluminium, platinum, 18ct white gold, tanzanite, sapphire, rock crystal and enamel. A gold tourmaline brooch made by Andrew Griffin, a mentee of the great Grima goldsmiths also shines brightly. He uses the textured wire work technique developed by Grima in the 1960s.
