The title of the project refers to India Street in the Vale of Leven, West of Scotland, which backs onto the remains of the biggest Turkey red factory, whose main export market was India. ‘India Street Part 1: The Bombay Sample Book’ (Edinburgh, August 2014) showed research into the Turkey red industry, how the mills of Vale of Leven rose to prominence in the 19th Century, and how they experienced rapid decline in the 20th Century when the madder rose plant became a redundant source of red dye, and Gandhi and the Swadeshi movement called for Indians to shop at home, as part of the drive for Home Rule. The exhibition explored Turkey red’s relationship to the indigenous crafts of India still in production today, and The Bombay Sample Book, held within the National Museum Scotland’s archives, produced by William Stirling & Sons from 1853-1868. It held samples that were thought suitable for an Indian market and trialled in the bazaars of Bombay. Within the archives of Turkey red we see designs ranging from graphic patterns in check, zigzag and polka dots, to illustrations depicting peacocks and paisley, wild animals and domestic life. These designs, roller-printed, are inspired by a wealth of textile crafts prevalent in the NW of India: We see specific copies of Block-printing, Bandhani, Leheria, Telia Roomal and Rabari embroidery. The exhibition juxtaposed this research alongside contemporary digital designs of initial responses to the archive by the designers. Designers were invited to explore the sample book, and respond aesthetically, and with hindsight, to the fabrics, their colours, patterns and motifs. Each of these design samples independently reflect on our current and historic position in relation to business models, ethics of production, fashion and taste.
These designs formed the basis of an exploratory workshop in India, ‘India Street Part 2: Building Blocks’ (2015) with a core group of designers producing editions of the fabric with block-printing, mud resist, digital printing and other relevant processes thriving in India. This workshop aimed to highlight the thriving textile production industry in India, and explore the possibilities of designing and making, internationally and collaboratively.
‘India Street Bazaar’, Tramway (2016) displayed the full research and investigation of the project, alongside contemporary products developed with the block-printed textiles. The designers developed a series of fabrics inspired by Turkey red, but produced in India where the original inspiration for the Turkey red fabrics came from. These final objects formed the core of the exhibition and illustrate the complex tale of Turkey red and current textile production in India. The samples were developed in conjunction with small-scale producers in India, into a range of new products showcased at India Street Bazaar. The project aimed to highlight the importance of economical and ecological sustainability and look at how contemporary designers can ethically work in a global digital age.
