This short essay describes a visit to the Isle of Bute made in 1772 by the Welsh naturalist, Thomas Pennant (1726-1798) as part of his Tour of Scotland, which he published that year. The essay follows in Pennant's footsteps, tracing his route across the island, describing the locations, landscape, natural features, flora and fauna of the place. Written in the style of a travel account, the essay reflects on Pennant's interests in the island as part of a 'northern empire of knowledge' during this period; and while he depicts the transformations taking place in Scotland after the Act of Union of 1707, his writings are punctuated by a sympathy for the recent troubles of the Earl of Bute at that time, John Stuart (1713-1792), the third earl, and described in the essay. Pennant encounters modern improvements in the landscape and people of the isle of Bute but he also expresses these new developments alongside a poetic impression of the land that includes ancient myth and language; and darker aspects of the island, including medieval barbarity, religious intolerance, torrential storms and bitter plants. As an account of a visit to the Island in July 2019, tracing Pennant's path, the essay brings to light contemporary features of climate, heritage and landscape that the naturalist would recognise, and most likely remark upon, today.