Purchased in 2015 by the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths’ for their Modern Jewellery Collection * after receiving Gold at the Goldsmiths Craft and Design Council Competition 2014
‘Lenticular’ Brooch - 18ct yellow, red, green, white gold, 24ct, platinum, palladium and oxidised silver. - 45mm (Diameter) Photography - Graham Clark
For a number of years I have been using precious gold and silver wires in my jewellery. I create my pieces by layering, and positioning these ‘threads’ to create rippling textures and colour variations, playfully drawing in the viewer and creating a moment of surprise. I am influenced by illusion and the mesmerizing visual effects of Optical Art and the 'Lenticular' Brooch is inspired by Bridget Riley's colourful Nataraja paintings. These pieces come alive with the slightest of movement and when you look closely you see some of the sections change colour and material when viewed from different angles. Red to white to black, gold to grey to green.
Technique - (techniques include, laser welding, wire drawing, piercing, soldering) The interlaced image has been created with over 1500 bi-metal wire 'pixels'. The pattern which changes when viewed from different angles is formed by carefully positioning the wires one-by-one and laser welding them in place.
* [The Modern Jewellery Collection is a unique and consistent collection of innovative studio jewellery by creative individuals expressing their artistry in precious metals.
In 1961, the landmark ‘International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery 1890-1961’ at Goldsmiths Hall initiated the modern jewellery collection at the Hall and at the Victoria & Albert Museum. De Beers Diamonds gave £12,000 to sponsor an open national competition to stimulate advanced British Jewellery Design, stating that such designs should be “both experimental and beautiful, frankly belonging to 1961, which would not have been made at any other time; as uninhibited as modern sculpture, or fashion; individual, imaginative and smart”. Such jewels did not exist at this time. The exhibition was a revelation of the potential of the craft and a new respect was gained for it.
From 1961 until 1981, the acquisition policy was dominated by the force of Graham Hughes, Art Director at the Goldsmiths’ Company. From 1981 to present day the acquisition policy has been overseen by the Modern Collections Committee, guided by the Curator, in conjunction with an expert and nationally-renowned modern jewellery advisor. Such advisors have served for periods of up to 6 years, and include David Thomas, John Donald, Jacqueline Mina, Charlotte De Syllas and Daphne Krinos.
Goldsmiths’ have acquired 68 pieces since the millennium.
Jewels entering the Collection should be in precious metals and show above all the creative individuality of the studio artist jeweller. The Collection does not focus on the branded names of Cartier, Tiffany etc., but on contemporary studio art jewellery in precious metals. As a result, such jewels retain their value for their craftsmanship and creativity, and not for their precious metal content or set stones.]
